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Question:
How do I get my Cobra Replica Registered in the State of Colorado?

Answer:
This is not a difficult or long process. It does take the various governmental entities awhile to process the forms. I have tried to make this as detailed as reasonably possible to help you with the process.

 

These instructions are generally for the Denver Metropolitan Area. They should work for other areas as well.

 

Note: You will be making payment each time you need something, Checks will work fine, I do not recommend cash, you may need a record.

  1. The car does not have to be painted; you should be willing to drive it on the road. Car has to be reasonably safe and in roadworthy condition. Make sure you have serial number from the manufacturer on the car and that it matches your paper work. The State Patrol will be looking for it on the frame, if its not on the frame, you will have a lot of explaining to do. Remember the more money you have put into the car the more you are going to be taxed later.
     
  2. Collect your major receipts. Engine, transmission, body, tires etc. Put them in a folder that you will be carrying with you.
     
  3. Go to your local county clerks office and get the forms. They are generally:
    DR2539, DR2408, DR2704 also DR2709 (a check list of sorts)

    If you want it titled as a 1965 Cobra put that in the description, they will issue a current year title, do it before you give the paper work to anyone.

    NOTE: you need a perjury statement on each of your receipts. The perjury statement is on the state forms just copy it all over the place and sign it. If in doubt put it on the document. If you don't do this they are going to say you need a bond. A bond does not cost a lot of money but why go there? Use the perjury statement and you will be okay.
    NOTE: you will need two side, front and back pictures of the car.
     
  4. Once the forms are understood and filled out you need an appointment with the State Patrol. In Denver you can call out at Camp George West and get a time. During the week the wait may be half an hour. On the weekend it could be a couple of hours.

    Note you will need a way of getting the car to the State Patrol, My Arapahoe County Clerk would not give me a 30 day permit. I used a trailer. Other counties the Clerk may give you a permit. You will probably need insurance. More on that later.
     
  5. Make a copy of your forms because the State Patrol is going to keep the clerks forms. You want copies of everything.
     
  6. In a few weeks the State Patrol is going to send you a letter that the paperwork has been approved. You have to get the car to the State Patrol for them to put the serial number on the car. I used a trailer. The State Patrol in their letter of approval to me said I could get a 30 day permit. Nope, the county clerk was lost, she had the look of a deer in the headlights, or that she had just got beaned by a 120 mph fast ball, no help there-absolutely none. The State Patrol will put the sticker in the engine compartment, Some of the State Patrol guys will ask you where you want it, others won't, you can always talk about it with them, they are going to put the sticker on anyway.
     
  7. Once the State Patrol has its tag on the car you are ready to go to the Department of Revenue, Motor Vehicle Office in Lakewood, its on North Pierce Street.

    Make sure that you have a copy of every thing!

DMV by my estimation does about 300 new registration new built cars a year. They are not familiar with the process. You want a clerk that is doing these titles, ask at the front desk or ask a supervisor.

 

You will give the paper work to a DMV clerk, remember that you need the perjury certificate, ask the clerk to see if it is on every document that needs it, if it doesn't, put it on the form,

 

The DMV at the Department of Revenue will keep to paperwork for a while. Mine was 3 weeks, 8 weeks is not unusual.

 

Work on getting insurance. If you have State Farm or Farmers, in Colorado they will insure, other majors may as well.

 

NOTE: This is a double note because you need to check the insurance. If you are getting classic car insurance or commonly known by the name of show car insurance, read the policy. Ask a lot of questions. Most of these policies only cover you on the way to a show, at the show and that's it!!! No deviations to a restaurant or to a motel if you are out of town! Be careful! I cannot stress enough that you may not have coverage. The insurance company is not going to cover a million dollar claim if they don't have too. They are not nice guys, if there is a way out they will take it.
 

  • Once you have the paper work from DMV and your insurance take your paper work to your local county clerk. They are going to tax you on everything you have in the car. Get a 60 day permit, it will give you time to do what you need to do next.

  • Emissions. Not that bad or tough. If you have a pre 1972 block State Health (Emissions) is going to apply the emission standards of that time. After 1972 you have to meet the applicable year standards. Generally if you have a Fuel Injected engine, emissions is going to apply those standards, i.e. cat and maybe an air pump, the standards that you meet at the emissions station are going to be tougher. If you have a carbed engine, and you have it looking like a pre 1972 engine then you will only have to have a PVC valve and if its old enough, maybe not even that.

    Make an appointment at State Health Emissions downtown on Second Avenue. It’s a red brick building Give them a call, maybe a couple of weeks wait.

    Emissions is going to look at the engine to see what standards it meets. They may look at the block numbers. If the car does not have a serpentine belt or an exotic ignition system or a fuel injection system it is probably going to get pre 1972 standards regardless of the year of the block.

    They will punch your numbers into the state computer system and give you a printout of the standards you have to meet keep this form!

    Meeting emissions is a matter go to a local emissions station and having performed a sniff test of you are carbed or a dyno test if you are a full FI emissioned vehicle.

    For carbed engines that means that they will stick a sniffer up the exhaust and a tach on the engine and you will have an idle test up to 1300 rpm and a higher idle test at up to 2400 rpm.

    For FI it’s onto the emission dyno.

  • When you pass, go to you local county clerks office with your paperwork and the emissions approval and get you license plates.

    •  

    Then you can come play with the Mile Hi Cobra Club

    Your friend,
    Dr. Cobra

    Special thank you to Rick DeWitt for the above detailed help.

    Question:
    I am thinking of buying and/or building a Cobra. Can you give me any advice?

    Answer:
    You have been bitten by the snake. Congratulations. You will never be the same.

    Dr. Cobra has lots of advice for you. Research before you buy.

    Come out to some of our events and ask lots of questions. Even ask for a ride in a Cobra. You will not know what you are buying until you do ride in one. I would even advise you to ask for a ride for your wife or significant other. Dr. Cobra has seen a lot of Cobra’s with less than 1000 miles come up for sale because the owner and his wife/significant other did not riding in it. (This is a good way to buy a Cobra, if you find one that you like)

    Dr. Cobra also advises you to not buy a car until you have researched the factory/manufacturer that builds the kit. You are spending a lot of money on the kit. Why not spend a little more and fly out to see who is building it? You can make sure that they really do have a factory and that they really are in business. While there, ask for a list of customers your state to call and visit with. Not just happy customers – all customers.

    Dr. Cobra says to ask a lot of questions and do a lot of research on what Drive Train you will be happy with. Not very many of us need 1000 horsepower, but you also do not want to be passed by very many Saturn’s while you are driving a Cobra. Also remember that we in Denver are a mile hi and get into the mountains quite often on our drives. Fuel Injection is very nice.

    You will also have to decide what you want your Cobra to do. Track, Street, Cruises, Car Shows, or everything? Dr. Cobra has found that you can not get a Cobra to do everything and do it well. You have to give up something. Think about it. Research

    Do you have the building skills to build it yourself? Do you want to drive something you built yourself? Does your wife/significant other want to ride in something you built your self? Do you have the money and tools to build it yourself? Do you have the money to have someone else build it for you?

    Also, remember when Dr Cobra said he “has seen a lot of Cobra’s with less than 1000 miles come up for sale because the owner and his wife/significant other did not riding in it “? This is an excellent way to buy a Cobra. It might be the color you would pick, might not have the exact engine/drive train you would pick, but you often buy it at $10,000 less than you would spend on a new car. $10,000 can go a long way towards getting it repainted and upgrading the car to the way you want it.

    The sooner you get your Cobra the sooner you can come play with the Mile Hi Cobra Club

    Your friend,
    Dr. Cobra
    Question:

    Dear Dr Cobra,

    What is real?
    Is that a Real Cobra?
    Is that Real?
    What is a replica?
    What is a kit?
    Is that a Fake?

    Your friend,
    Lost in the woods.

    Answer:

    Dear Lost,

    Dr Cobra has found that you must have patience with the people who ask you these questions. Most of them do mean well and only wish to be better informed. They are just trying to ask if it is a real Shelby Cobra or a Replica. What they are really asking is “Is this car an ORIGINAL Cobra from the 60’s?” The answer is simply “No, it is a REPLICA of an ORIGINAL Cobra” If someone asks me if it is a kit, I say “No, it is a REPLICA of an ORIGINAL Cobra” You can spend as much time with them as wish after that answer.

    Dr Cobra also tells them to check out our web site (www.milehicobraclub.com) if they are interested in Replicas and to check out (www.shelbyamericancollection.org) if they would like to see some Original Cobras.

    If you have a Cobra Replica, please try to enjoy it and enjoy the excitement that it brings to so many people. Be nice to them. Many people are just not educated about the whole Cobra Thing and are just trying to talk to you about your beautiful car.

    The path followed by every Cobra owner to get a car on street is different varying from those that can afford to plunk down a load of cash for a turnkey car to those that painstakingly built there car over months or even years on a shoe-string budget. One common thread evolves - Everyone ends up with a great car that is a source of pride and enjoyment. Whether hand-crafted and custom built in a home workshop or off of an assembly line, time and testing on the road and at the track has shown that none are superior but all are special.
    That's actually a pretty easy answer, depending on who you ask. If you ask Carroll Shelby he'll tell you that any of his cars that carry a CSX VIN# are REAL Cobras. The truth there is that if it was built after about 1968 or so and has a fiberglass body--even though it has a CSX#--it's a continuation car or even a Shelby replica. Yeah, Shelby built it, but because it has a fiberglass body, it's still a replica in my eyes. Then there's the case of the Eleanor Mustang clones to which he has attached his blessing...they curiously carry a CSX number even though they were not considered Shelby Mustangs in the '60s. His licensee buys old 65-69 cars and is somehow able to attach new CSX VIN numbers to them. How that happens legally I'll never know. Except for Factory Five and Superformance cars (and his own), which he in effect licenses, he calls replicas, "counterfeit copies."

    If someone on the street asks if your replica is real, the easy answer is yes, it's a real car albeit a replica of an original. My feeling is that once the car is built it no longer a kit car, even though it started that way. Replica is just as it implies, a copy of a typically unobtanium original. The kit car industry is not the only one that practices replica making. There are some high-end replica builders who would never consider their cars kits. If you listen closely at some show like Pebble Beach you will also hear the word replica as it applies to a car that was reconstructed from some little bit of what was left of the original car. Those are distinguished as compared to a completely original car.

    My thinking is that above all, if a car gives its owner pleasure, what difference does it make the label it wears.


    One of Dr Cobra’s pet peeves is “Car Snobs”. You can tell them from the rest of us, because they only enjoy their car because they think it is better than some one else’s. They can own just about any kind of car (in fact, Dr Cobra has meet some who do not own a car, but have a friend who has a brother in law who knows this guy who has an Original Cobra in his shed out back). When you run into these people, you can have a lot of fun with them. Remember, they are not smart. These people are great to give answers like “Cobras are a lot like boobs. Real ones are great, but fake can be great!” or “If it bites....it is real.” Or “‘If you can touch the car then it’s real.’ Or what ever answer you wish to give.

    Your friend,
    Dr. Cobra

    Question:

    Hey Dr. Cobra,

    I am getting closer to having to pick the engine configuration for my Cobra. Perhaps there is someone you can point me to that I may talk to about choosing a block.
    1. Iron 427, vs, SA 427, vs Genesis....block choice and registration and emission impacts.
    2. Induction choices...looking at TVM and webers
    3. Best local wrenches to talk to?
    4. Engine builders,,,,locally nationally?

    I am sure I will have more questions, but that should get us started....thoughts?

    Your friend,

    Engineless in Denver

    Answer:

    Dear Engineless in Denver

    Boy oh boy, this free advice thing is getting to be something. Dr Cobra is wondering if he should call his buddy Dr. Phil and get a TV Show. Maybe the Speed Channel is looking for someone. How about Danica Patrick as a co host?

    1. Talk to Colorado Department of health first - Vic Cooper (303-744-0127) at 2nd and Bryant about block year and registration/emissions. Then look at cost carb to pan for each engine. Block really depends on your budget and goals.
       
    2. For the cost, a carb is often a much better choice in terms of maintenance and the ability to repair the system. Webers and TVM are cool looking but people often struggle to make them work right at all throttle and driving conditions. While some report success, others have become very close to their local dyno and tuning shop for repeated tweaking (which can get very pricey). KISS is the key. A properly setup carb will work well in Colorado for 1/5 to 1/10 of the cost of injection. Be careful when dealing with the people that sell these systems because they will paint a much different picture. Webers look cool. But unless you're experianced with them they can be a real bear to adjust and tune. They can also be difficult to keep in tune.

      There are a number of choices in EFI stack systems. Some are inexpensive, and some are not. Check www.momarefi.com It's a little expensive, but claims to be one of the best. S&S Automotive (www.coloradocobras.com) recently purchased Momar EFI, so they are manufacturers, distributors, and tuners of this system.
       
    3.  I would talk to Rob McQuarie at Blue Oval locally. I’d suggest that you also may want to speak to Lou Rivera, or Carl Wade at S&S. Knowledgeable, diligent, and honest.
       
    4. For engine builders – George Anderson at Gessford in Neb, Keith Craft, and Rob at Blue Oval. Dr Cobra has heard that Gary at Colorado Custom Cylinder Heads on South Platte River Drive does a good job. 303-761-9077. Again, Carl Wade at S&S. I've also heard good things about Coast High Performance. You also should check out Phil Long Ford and Ford Crate Engines. Get GOOD cost estimates in advance.

    Dr. Cobra believes in the KISS theory. He happens to like EFI on a small block. But the sound and looks of a big block are great. And the torque of a big block is so cool. Small block with EFI requires a lot more emissions stuff.

    Research your engine builder and make sure that he is on the same page as you are. Several are listed on our web site (www.milehicobraclub.com) and Dr Cobra recommends them all. He has heard good things about each of them or else they would not be on the web site. Call all of them and go see as many as you can. Get the estimate in writing. Get a firm due date.

    This is a personal choice and you need to find one you can work with. Your builder is going to be getting a lot of your money so research him real well. Ask for referrals. Ask the referrals how they drive their cars. If you are getting a race engine built then talk to racers. If you are getting a street engine built then talk to cruisers. If you are getting a show car built then talk to waxers.


    Your friend,
    Dr. Cobra
     
    Question:

    Who would you recommend for having a car transported back to Denver?

    Answers:

    1. Haulin Assets
      Jeff Tunnell
      720-810-3663
       
    2. Stewart Transport
      Brice - Scheduling
      Collin - Owner
      602-242-1800 or 1-888-737-4852
      http://www.stewarttransport.com/

      They carry 90% or all factory fives from Boston to all 48 states. They are very good with their freight, and know how to handle cobras. Based in Phoenix 
       
    3. Fed Ex bought out Passport transportation. I have had many cars (very expensive) transported by them and can normally have anything picked up within several days. They have vans that cover the US and Canada. They picked up my last GT40 within three days and it was delivered in Southern CA within 3 days.
    4. I just saw this email and I have a great transportation guy. His name is Gary Almond and his number is 240 994 1343. He's a one man show so there's no need to worry about stacking cars that will drip oil on yours and moving it around on a big truck during transport, etc. He's very reasonable, too. I got quotes from him for two Ferraris and his quotes were the best for both.
    5. I used DAS transport a year ago and was very happy with their service and
      scheduling.  Either go to ebaymotors.com or look them up on the net.
      6.  
     
    Question:
    How many 427 AC Cobras where originally produced?

    Answer:
    This info is from "AC COBRAS" by Rinsey Mills ISBN 1 85960 849 3

    CSX3001-CSX3055 These are the S/C competition 427's. They were the only 427's to truly use a side-oiler 427. Also only cobra roadsters to have side exhausts.

    CSX3101-CSX3358 These are the street 427's. motor is actually a 428 police interceptor. undercar exhausts.

    CSX3056-CSX3100 apparently these chassis numbers were not used

    dates are 10/23/64 Thru 12/28/66

    Derald Rice supplied this information to Dr Cobra.

     
    Question:
    Do you have any suggestions as to Colorado insurance co's that will insure a Cobra?

    Answer:
    DR Cobra got a lot of answers on this question.  First of all - no one knows of a "Colorado" insurance company that insures Cobra Replicas.  Do not know of a Colorado insurer.  You must be asking if any of the national companies insure Cobra Replicas in Colorado.  The answer is yes.  Most do. Some do not. 

    DR Cobra has found that a lot depends on the agent you talk to at most insurance companies.  DR Cobra has also found that most agents do not have a clue as to what a Cobra Replica is.  I think it is very scary to have your insurance with someone who does not know what they are insuring.  When you have a claim, will they say "I did not know I was insuring a 2500 lb car with 500 horsepower. No Air Bags. No 5 mile per hour bumper.  No way. We do not insure those. Sorry. Claim denied."

    For this reason, DR Cobra recommends that you contact JC Taylor (Another MHCC Sponsor).  www.jctaylor.com or  1-800-345-8290.  They know what a Cobra Replica is and they insure them everyday.  They also pay claims if the Cobra Replica is wrecked.  You might save a few dollars at some other place, but how much is it worth to save a few bucks when you do not know if they company you are with will pay you when you need them.

    If you want to visit with another agent, call Kevin Johnson with Allstate at (303) 400-1356.  Kevin is another MHCC Sponsor and will get you on the right track. 

    The following are not sponsors of the MHCC,but have been recommended by some of our members:
    Classic Auto Insurance (www.classicins.com)
    Parish Heacock (www.parishheacock.com)
    Condon Skelly  (www.condonskelly.com) (800-257-9496)
    Northeast Classic Auto Ins  (800-866-6440) Mike Smith
    American Hobbyist (
    American Insurance (www.amig.com) Tammy Perto
    State Farm
    Allstate
    American Family
    Continental Western Group (303-430-0770) Ted Montanye
    Midwest Classic Insurance (888-271-4000) Robbin Terry
    Haggerty  (I heard they no longer insure Replicas)
    American National (800-CAR-BUFF)
    Grundy (800-338-4005)

    Have you ever noticed how many Insurance Companies use the word "America" in their name?  Wonder why.  Just makes you feel all warm and nice and safe - doesn't it? 

    Good luck on your search.  Be sure and get agreed value - not stated value.  And when you need an appraisal, call one of my best friends - Dick Thompson with the MHCC and he will get you one. 

    Question:
    I want Sheepskin seat covers for my Cobra - where do I find them?

    Answer:
    Try Rocky Mountain Sheepskin on E. Hampden.  Or drive very slow in Wyoming.

    Question:
    Does anyone know where to get rear trunk hinges for a legendary auto inc. cobra kit 1991?

    Answer:
    Try Paula at Finish Line (888) 436-9113 or www.cobraaccessories.com
    or Bob Kallio at Shell Valley (888) 246-0900 or www.shellvalley.com. They are both sponsors of the Mile Hi Cobra Club. Be sure and tell them you got their name and number from the Mile Hi Cobra Club.

    Or try Tony Branda or Mossmotors.com or Cobra Valley. Most manufacturers use the same parts for stuff like this.

    If none of these can help you, you might post your question on www.clubcobra.com


    Question:
    I am finishing up my Lonestar Cobra and with it I got a hard top shell. I need some help on either making some or where I can get the material or the finish windows for it.

    Thanks for your help

    HardTop Cobra Guy

    Answer:

    1. Hard Top Guy,

      Dr Cobra got some Windwings made at Santa Fe Glass on Santa Fe just south of 470. They made them out of lexan and he really likes them.
       
    2. Dr Cobra,
      Have him try Psasticare off of Santa Fe in Englewood. They sell all types of Lexan, plexiglass, carbon fibre, Kevlar, and fiberglass products. They will also cut and shape the Lexan glass to your specs.
      http://www.plasticareinc.com/index.htm
      But why does he need a hard top shell or windows??? This is a Cobra, not a Miata!
       
    3. He should just buy mine for about $ 1500
      Mike McCoulf at 303-680-9532
       
    4. You might also check with Lone Star (877 ) 572-2277, ext.210
       
    5. Also check on www.clubcobra.com. Either do a search or you might post your question. Watch out cause they will want to know if you like big blocks or small blocks. Then the discussion will drift off if you should have a top at all, and then if you should have a radio, and then the heater and air conditioning stuff will start. Good luck and we look forward to seeing your car.

     
    Question:
    Does anyone know where to get strips painted on an unstripped car?

    Answer:

    1. I am having Eric at Western Frame and Auto Body in Greeley paint our car.

      I went to 4 shops in Colorado and frankly was amazed at the costs that were quoted. I was going to sent the car to the Batman in California but then saw Craig Hillman's car and I was convinced that a Colorado painter can do a great job at a reasonable price.

      Eric did Craig Hilman's car and Craig's car looks great. I have seen some of Eric's other work and it looks great. A real craftsman.

      His prices seem reasonable and in line with the best California painters. His time for the work seems prompt, too fast for me because I have about 2 months
      more work to do on the car.

      I think that this shop has potential to be a high quality, reasonable cost shop for painting Cobras.

      Renee is the office manager their number is 970-330-1992.
      Rick DeWitt
      303-781-1010
      call Eric at barely legal. they have a great paint person: 303-550-7763
       
    2. Hi Dr Cobra.
      For the person that is looking for stripes on his Cobra....before I ordered my car from Superformance I was debating to go striped or stripeless so I checked around and found (and talked) to a guy north of Denver....I want to say he is in Brighton but not 100% sure...I saw some of his work and he has done Cobra stripes before....his email is GEBH3 @aol.com and his name is Hans....also, his website is www.finelinerestoration.com .
      He quoted me a cost of $3000 to $4000 for stripes...I also inquired to another location near Denver and his prices were the same...
      Hopefully you can pass this on...
      Tom.... (Stripeless in Windsor)
       
    3. John May in Northglenn is awesome. His # is 450-7454. Tell him I sent you. Doug Brown Phil Long Ford
       
    4. Jerry Standers collision works Littleton 303 791-1900. Ask for Dan and tell him Geof Phillips referred you
       
    5. Dr. Cobra,
      I had my car painted in Greeley at Western Frame and Body. I did not have strips
      put on it, but was very happy with the work the Eric did. I don't have the phone
      number readily available, the office manager is Rene.
      Craig

    Good luck in your search. Please send us pictures (for the web site) of your finished car.

    Question:
    Do you know of any Cobra owners, or shops that have vast experience in adjusting hydraulic lifters? Just installed a World Products 427, and the valves (rocker arms) have to be adjusted with the motor running. I have detailed the engine compartment, and have wrapped the headers, so oil flying everywhere would be bad. Hopefully, someone out there has modified a set of tall valve covers, has clips to stop flying oil, or some other interesting device to keep the oil under control during this adjustment. That, and a good dyno tune is about all that is keeping us from attending the next club event.

    Answers:

    1. Hydraulic lifters are adjusted with the engine off and cold. In the "olden days"
      mechanical (solid) lifters were adjusted hot and running. But I don't think anybody does that any more. They should be adjusted hot, but not running. Go to www.cranecams.com or www.compcams.com for detailed instructions.
      For personal help, contact the guys at S&S Automotive in Denver. www.coloradocobras.com
      ----------
      Bob
       
    2. Call Pantera Performance in Castle Rock 303-660-9897
       
    3. Chip at EPS Automotive on Evergreen is the man for this task. 303-674-6017. Doug Brown
       
    4. An alternative, but more time consuming and cleaner, method is to adjust them by feel. To do this set the #1 piston at TDC in its firing cycle (plugs out makes it easier - you can use a plastic straw to locate the piston position if necessary and the rotor will tell you when you are close to #1 firing) and loosen both valve adjuster screws and lock nuts. Take a pushrod between your thumb and index finger and while feeling the clearance (between push rod and adjuster) by twisting the rod, slowly take up all of the slack with the adjusting screw. Then add 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn clockwise to the adjuster and tighten the lock nut (while holding the position of the adjuster screw). Hand crank the motor clockwise to TDC again and repeat for #3. 351 firing order is: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. In an engine that has been previously run all of the hydraulic lifters should be fully "pumped up" with oil and will feel rock hard when you push down on the push rod. Sometimes one will leak and feel soft (not a problem) and you will be able to push the rod down about 1/4" against the internal spring. You will be able to tell the difference between the spring pressure and "slack" - just take up the slack. This operation will take a couple of hours but will allow you to begin an intimate relationship with the interior of your beautiful engine! Be careful not to over tighten the valve cover bolts. (Like Dick Thompson did)

      To keep from making a mess when adjusting my lifters, I took an old valve cover and cut a slot in the top a little bigger than the socket. It stops the mess unless you have roller rockers, then the adjustments are made with the engine off. Shelby

      Call Lou
      Dave
       
    5. Carl Wade at S&S Automotive does a Dyno Tune for around $180.00. I am sure he can adjust your roller rockers. Their number is 303 750 2808. www.coloradocobras.com
      Wayne
       
    6. How about Lou Rivera at Lou's Cars. Lou is a sponsor and has done good work on my car. I am sure that there are many people who can vouch for him.
      Rick DeWitt.
       
    7. Set em cold. Every racer in the world sets em that way. run em three times, just like the big boys downtown. Set em hot if you aren't any good with a feeler gauge.

      It works good for 6000 hp nitro cars.

      Keith Hall
    Question:
    For the questions about the Paint Chip Repair and the Clear Bra - here are a couple of ideas

    Answers:
    I know a guy who does a good job of installing clear bras. He is a 3M trainer for the clear bra shops in town. And has recently done 2 cobras in town.

    Ben Long
    303-994-1201

    I purchased a Norton Chip &Scratch Repair Kit last week from Crest Net Sales 1-888-478-2512 (PN NOR 37913). I saw this demonstrated on Dream Car Garage last month. It contains all of the proper abrasives to blend the paint repair spot into a new paint job (wet sand paper, rubbing compounds, etc) for $25. They sell full size kits to auto repair shops (including the air tools for about $200) for chip repair. You have to provide and apply your own touch up paint, allow it to dry, then level it out with the abrasives. I will do a write up on this in the next few weeks.

    Question:
    I have an IRS out of a 1984 Jaguar XJ I wish to change gears out to a taller combo, any hints or words of advice, I have a reputable shop assisting but wondered if you all had any experiences you needed to share.

    Mick in Omaha

    Answers:
    Dear Mick

    Here are some answers for you:

    Suggest his shop contact Brizio's Hot Rods in South San Francisco....
    area code 415? either his shop has someone or they have it done....V

    It's been a few years....

    Jag rearends are pretty easy to work on, once you get the pumpkin out of
    the cage. If a person can setup a 9" Ford or a 12 bolt Chevy rearend,
    you can setup a Jag pumpkin, same process. Once pinion depth, bearing
    preloads and backlash are set always check the contact pattern with
    prussian blue.
    That's the most important step when your putting plenty of power through
    it.

    Getting the pumpkin out of the cage can be a little tricky with all the
    needle bearings at the pivot points, just disassemble slowly over a
    large metal tray. You can build some cheap metal rods (match the thru
    bolt diameter), the same width as the control arms, to hold the needles
    in place when you slide the bolts through, or very carefully use the
    heavy grease method to hold them in place. If you're keeping the
    original cage, inspect it carefully for cracks, especially around the
    lower flanges where the lower cover plate bolts on. They're known to
    crack there. Wouldn't hurt to reinforce that area.

    Not sure what's best these days, but check into several sources for the
    the stub axle seals, these leak often. This is more important if you
    keep the inboard brakes. The main cause of stub axle seal leaks is the
    heat from the inboard brakes. Get the best material seals you can get,
    and make sure you have plenty of air flow, even separate ducts, to keep
    the rotors cool.

    Long story short, if you can build a Cobra, you can disassemble the cage
    by taking your time. If you're not comfortable with gear setup, take
    just the pumpkin to a good shop and have it done, while the gears are
    being setup, fully disassemble the cage, inspect all bearings, seals,
    shafts and the cage itself, and get it ready for reassembly. I'm sure
    there are a few manuals running around the Internet that would be
    useful, just don't be afraid of all the special tools they mention, most
    everything can be done with common tools.

     

    Question:
    I would like to find out if any members have installed the Momar injection system?
    What other systems have members gone with?

    I'm looking to do something because I'm tired of the vapor lock and boiling over.

    Please let me know.

    Thanks,
    Boiling Fuel in Denver

    Answers:
    Dear Boiling Fuel,

    Holley build a nice TBI system that is easy to install. I have installed these systems and it is as easy as a carb. Steve Norman

    Had Momar installed in Denver. Instead of 3 months took 6. They installed PLASTIC fuel line which promptly sucked a hole into it. Momar is a good system - get it done somewhere else.
    Mike

    I have the Momar system. It took a little time to get it dialed in. But now it's working like a dream.

    I used a strok

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